The promenade belongs to rowers and joggers for two hours every morning. Walk east from the hotel toward the rowing sheds; the light off the water does something worth the alarm. Coffee starts at the cart by the bridge — a queue forms, but it moves.
By 9 the breakfast rooms fill. Ours serves until 11, but if you're already out, the bakery under the arts centre does the city's best almond croissant. Sit facing the river; the skyline performs better from a bench.







